Cut the excess zipper tape off of the top of the invisible zipper and liquid fray preventer to the top of the zipper to prevent the zipper tape from unraveling.
Pin the invisible zipper into place along the center back with 1" seam allowance (!), with the top of the zipper slightly below the top of the collar (⅛" or so).
Sew the invisible zipper to the garment, extending the stitching ONLY 1" onto the collar (leaving the remainder ⅞" or so of the zipper hanging free). Reinforce the stitching at the top of the stitch line.
Using your all-purpose foot, sew a horizontal stitch across the zipper tape to further secure it to the collar.
Sew the bottom of the undershirt closed along the center back seam.
OPTIONAL: Further secure the invisible zipper to the seam allowances by sewing along the zipper tape with an all-purpose sewing foot.
Close the invisible zipper.
Press the upper ⅞" or so of the collar seam allowances open (again, with 1" seam allowance).
Angle the collar seam allowance slightly downward from center, so that the edge of the seam allowance is ⅛" or so below the top of the collar.
Hand sew the entire collar seam allowance into place securely, taking care to ONLY stitch through the collar facing and not through all layers.
OPTIONAL: "Stitch in the ditch" along the centermost back 1" or so of the body/collar seam to further secure the back seam allowance.
Repeat for the other side.
Hand sew two hook-and-eye closures to the upper back collar, again taking care stitch ONLY through the seam allowance layers (or possibly the collar facing, as well), but NOT through the outer collar itself.
The result should be a perfectly hidden back closure, with no zipper or zipper pull tab visible (and only a slight indent where the zipper is left to hang free and the closure transitions from zipper to hooks-and-eyes).
PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 4 - Collar to Body
No comments:
Post a Comment