The VOY undershirts closed in the back via an invisible zipper, with the uppermost portion of the zipper hanging free and the remaining top of the collar closing with a couple hook-and-eye closures.
Interestingly, the back seam allowance seemed to hang out in the 1" range:
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| VOY, 7x4 "Repression" |
With few notable/noticeable exceptions (such as those below), the back collar seam allowance seemed to almost universally hang out in the 1" range.
This could have been because the pattern was, indeed, a repurposing of the TWOK undershirt/division shirt pattern, which had a larger allowance in the back because of its overlapping style of zipper closure.
Or, it might have been intended to allow plenty of room for adjustment, should the actors' neck, chest, and/or waist measurements change; it could be taken in or let out as needed.
The Sisko's back collar seam allowance, for instance, looked to be a bit smaller - perhaps in the ¼" range:
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B'Elanna's back collar seam allowance, on the other hand, looked to be slightly larger - perhaps in the 1 ¼" range:
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| VOY, 2x11 "Maneuvers" |
Another possibility is that the additional seam allowance was needed for sufficiently securing the hook-and-eye closures on the upper collar so that they would hold the collar closed without the collar halves pulling apart as easily or the tension causing the opening to bow outward.
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| VOY, 1x15 "Jetrel" |
Of course, it may have been any or all of the above.
Then again, it might have simply been a purely stylistic choice!
The length to which the invisible zipper extended onto the collar, as well as the degree to which it was sewn on securely and the top left to hang free, varied somewhat over the years, but we'll avoid bombarding you with information ... let's just say ½" or so and leave it at that.
(That said, the zipper did appear to often extend to the top edge of the collar, with the stitching extending up about halfway.)
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